Can You Reuse Repaired Drywall Hole
| | 2008-Nov-23 11:26 pm Fixing holes in the wall and reusing them?Hello guys! When nosotros moved into our new place, the previous owner had "hidden" a towel rack issue. The screws that hold the rack into the wall had come out. They used those screw type anchors, the largest available (about a ane/2" pigsty). I would LOVE to reuse the same spot on the wall to reattach the towel rack, simply and so far I've had no luck in filling the holes in the wall and allowing me to reuse them, hell, I can't even go the surface area strong enough to not button into the wall by using gentle force. I don't have to reuse that area, I can relocate the towel rack no problem, just what would exist a expert method to make full the holes? Utilize that metal hole filler stuff? (I'd rather not, looks like lots of piece of work) I've just been using hole filler ... and and then far, nothing works... aid? If information technology was a large pigsty, I could handle that repair chore, cut out and repair. But I'thou trying to avoid cutting it out if at all possible. |
| | 2008-Nov-23 eleven:43 pm said past clevere1: If it was a large hole, I could handle that repair job, cut out and repair. But I'chiliad trying to avoid cut it out if at all possible. That'south probably going to be your best bet unfortunately. If it'due south large enough that simply mudding over it doesn't set information technology, only also small for a real patch, I think it's never going to accept strength. I'd cut a several inch section out, put a backer piece of wood beyond the pigsty with a few drywall screws. Tape/mud as appropriate. |
| | 2008-November-23 11:47 pm i'd say the best way is to cut out a section from stud to stud, 3/4" past the start of the forest, then put a 2x4 in that area, screw it into the studs, then yous have something very secure to mount anything you lot want at that place, and so put a patch, made from new sheetrock, over the opening, and screw it into the studs on each end, then merely patch the cracks with articulation compound.. i call back you accept a damaged piece of sheetrock in there, that'southward why a patch won't concord.. |
| Vinch | to clevere1 Y'all might have luck with winged plastic anchors or even big enough toggle bolts. If these fail, and so I guess you'll have to go with plan B... Expert luck! |
| 1 edit | to clevere1 I second the toggle bolt suggestion. If you already accept 1/2" holes in the wall, you volition be able to get toggles in at that place hands, and once they are in they won't pull out without bringing a large clamper of the wall with them! |
| | to clevere1 I`ll have to concord with that zen guy... do it in one case and do information technology right! -j |
| | 2008-Nov-25 12:08 am Ok Thanks guys. I'm all about making certain I exercise information technology right, BUT. If I replace the drywall I volition want to utilise greenboard (the more than mold resistant stuff), does anyone know if you lot have to buy a total sheet of the stuff (either drywall or greenboard) I don't need a Total sheet.... |
| | 2008-Nov-25 12:19 am Commonly you have to buy a full sheet -- Lowes has regular sheetrock cutting into 2 x 2 foot pieces. Not cheap compared to a total sail but it you just need a little it's non bad. |
| to clevere1 Simply an FYI for fixing *some* holes easily. In the apt's I look after I go many holes caused by tenants. What has worked slick for me with little try, say in the case of a door knob hole. Cut the loose pieces off, so chamfer cutting the pigsty to take the edges off. Stuff the hole in the wall cavity with fibreglass insulation, keeping it peradventure an inch beneath the hole, and to the sides of the hole. Using expanding foam, put in the nozzle til it touches the opposite wall in the crenel, and spray pulling the nozzle forward as you go. Judge yourself how much you need for it to aggrandize to the surface of the hole y'all're fixing. Let information technology aggrandize and dry overnight, then cutting out the excess. You lot now take a skilful solid bankroll, and you lot can plaster patch with say Sheetrock20. | |
| | to Vinch I use toggles all the fourth dimension in the exact same situation with towel bars. Works slick. |
| | 2008-November-25 3:52 am said by Candoo3: I use toggles all the fourth dimension in the exact aforementioned state of affairs with towel bars. Works slick. it seems this guy has damaged sheetrock, possibly from water impairment, and then that may not work... |
| one edit | to clevere1 said by clevere1: Ok Thanks guys. I'm all about making sure I exercise it correct, BUT. If I supervene upon the drywall I will want to use greenboard (the more mold resistant stuff), does anyone know if you accept to purchase a full sheet of the stuff (either drywall or greenboard) I don't need a Total canvass.... My local Home Depot sells small square sheets pre-cut for patch jobs (mayhap 24"x24"). If you end up buying a full canvas, but recollect that fifty-fifty though they come from the mill bundled two sheets together for force during transport, the shop sells them past the sheet. So you practice not take to buy two sheets bundled. Yous can too cut the sheet you buy to some more reasonable size in the parking lot before transport to your abode if necessary. Take a look at this analogy which illustrates in office what zen1 was describing minus the excellent suggestion of calculation the 2x4 betwixt the studs to provide a sturdy surface for mounting the towel rack. The suggestion of going all the way to the next stud over instead of adhering the slice as in the analogy is what allows for adding a 2x4 for additional spiral surface. Because the patch hole volition be relatively small, I also suggest that instead of trying to toenail the 2x4 into place between the studs that y'all use decking hangers with hidden flanges to hold that 2x4. I am providing a picture of ane that is similar, but I could not find a moving-picture show of the verbal 1 that is 2x4 sized. You can put ane screw in each to agree them and pin them out to allow insertion of the 2x4. Then rotate the hangers and lath in so that information technology is flush with the studs and add a second screw to the flange that extends above the top of the 2x4. (You find these in the decking lumber section of the Home Depot.) |
| | to zen1 said past zen1 : said by Candoo3: I use toggles all the time in the verbal same situation with towel bars. Works slick. it seems this guy has damaged sheetrock, possibly from water damage, so that may not work... Uhh .. No water damage. It'due south just a hole in the drywall from someone pulling out a spiral-in blazon hanger. |
| | Your easiest repair past far is going to exist the toggle bolts. Stick 'em in and you're in biz! |
| | 2008-Nov-25 12:24 pm said by mattmag: Your easiest repair past far is going to be the toggle bolts. Stick 'em in and yous're in biz! Yeah, I worry most them rusting in the bath... |
| horsemouth1 | said by clevere1: said past mattmag: Your easiest repair past far is going to be the toggle bolts. Stick 'em in and you're in biz! Yeah, I worry nearly them rusting in the bath... If they rust you take bigger bug. |
| 1 edit | to clevere1 If yous're worried, and it is going to testify, then don't employ the commodities that is supplied. Buy separate stainless bolts and use those. The supplied bolts are common sizes: ane/8, 3/16, 1/4. If the toggle is just going to secure the mounting plate that the bar brackets attach to, don't worry at all. If you take that much wet in the bath, the bar stop is going to deteriorate long before the bolt head rusts. The office of the toggle in the wall won't rust every bit it'south in the wall. Edit: (The toggle end will fit snug thru the i/2" hole. It sounds like screw in Zip-its were previously used, leaving a 1/2" hole.) |
| 1 edit | to sempergoofy said past sempergoofy: Considering the patch pigsty will be relatively minor, I also suggest that instead of trying to toenail the 2x4 into identify betwixt the studs that y'all use decking hangers with hidden flanges to concord that 2x4. Of form, you could always utilize a drill bit and screws instead of toe-nailing, or instead of decking hangars, which IMHO, seems like a really elegant solution, where merely a simple one is needed. The toggle bolt idea, is not really wise. Holding upwardly a towel rack, as many homeowners know hither; it will be ripped out of the wall within a month, specially considering they would be used through 1/two holes that already exist. Practise information technology right, and you won't stop up doing it twice. Cut a section out the drywall from the middle of one stud to the adjacent. Put a two/iv backer lath betwixt the two studs, tape, spackle and paint. And so you take a really stiff surface to mount your towel racks on with ordinary wood screws. |
| said past whizkid3: The toggle bolt idea, is non really wise. Belongings up a towel rack, as many homeowners know hither; information technology volition be ripped out of the wall within a calendar month, particularly considering they would be used through i/2 holes that already exist. I've used 3/16 toggles in the apt buildings I maintain, for the past xv years. I've never had any of them pull out or harm the walls, and some have been in for 15 years. These apts accept a lot of abuse by tenants. When expanded, they grip the inner drywall by approx 2". They are strong enough and won't pull out unless a person stood on the subclass or maybe used the bar to do chin-ups, and the bar would give earlier the brackets. | |
| | to clevere1 I replaced 2 useless 24" towel bars with 1 48" stainless steel safety bar. Screwed into studs, the affair is great. They come in 16" increments. |
| 2008-Nov-26 12:12 am Wish they came 16" OC here. xviii/24/xxx/36. | |
| | 2008-Nov-26 ane:02 am hmm .. Ok, I know what toggle bolts you guys are talking about. But that would leave a really big pigsty that isn't filled. I am very much considering filling in the holes, and adding a congenital in shelf instead of the towel rack. But, I really like the idea of just cutting out the bad spot, and adding a 2x4... My but fearfulness is my lack of experience repairing holes, and texturing the wall. |
| | 2008-Nov-26 1:14 am Any risk you could mail service a pic? |
| | to clevere1 Cutting the drywall and putting in the 2x4 is probably the meliorate option just »www.amazon.com/Henkel-00 ··· 00NHW2VA (also sold under the Lepage brand) these piece of work too. It'south non as strong but if you employ a good anchor and allow it dry out properly they practice work. |
| | to robbin said past robbin: Any take chances you could mail service a movie? I can post a flick of the ii filled holes .... Correct now they have filler in them.. I forget what the stuff is called .. drywall mud.. The thing that came out of the wall was like this »world wide web.mrgrabbar.com/SnapSk ··· 0011.htm and the size is a #viii (the largest available at the hardware store). I can post pictures tomorrow. Right at present folks are sleepin... |
| | 2008-Nov-26 1:41 am Pics may aid to run across what kind of surface area yous are working in. Some of us may get creative for you! |
| | 2008-Nov-26 1:52 am said past robbin: Pics may assistance to see what kind of area you are working in. Some of us may go creative for you lot! Ok, I'll post them tomorrow. |
| | to Candoo3 said by Candoo3: I've used 3/16 toggles in the apt buildings I maintain, for the past xv years. I've never had whatever of them pull out or damage the walls There must not exist any children in your apartment building. (They similar to use towel racks as chin-upwardly confined). |
| to clevere1 Expandable Hollow Wall Anchors. I would suggest using standard drywall paste to patch the holes, permit it dry and harden for 24-48 hours, drill the appropriate pigsty for the EHWA you purchase, install, and forget that at that place was e'er a trouble. | |
Can You Reuse Repaired Drywall Hole,
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